B92
Brushing and Bathing


short-haired breeds | wirehaired breeds | long-haired breeds | double-coated breeds | bathing


Introduction: A main key to good grooming is good nutrition. Without good nutrition the pet’s coat will appear dry and lifeless. All dogs require regular bathing and brushing. Most types of hair coats can be categorized into one of four groups: short-haired breeds, wirehaired breeds, long-haired breeds and double-coated breeds. The type of hair coat the dog has will determine the frequency of brushing and bathing.

Tools for Brushing and Bathing

  1. Shampoo and conditioner
  2. Slicker brush
  3. Wide toothed comb
  4. Grooming rake
  5. Rubber tipped pin brush
  6. Coat dressing or spray
  7. Cotton balls

* Pictures of many of these objects can be found later in this discussion.

Short-haired Breeds (Doberman pinschers, dachshunds, German shorthairs, pugs, etc.): Even short-haired breeds will need care. Comb these breeds regularly, especially before each bath. With short-haired breeds, use a rubber tipped, curry-type brush. Brushing 2-3 times a week will greatly reduce shedding. It is also helpful to rub the coat in a circular pattern while wearing a pair of latex gloves. This loosens the dead hair and dander, which can be removed by running a damp cloth over the pet. A car chamois cloth can also be used to collect loose hair and dander. Short-haired breeds can be bathed 1-2 times a month, depending on how dirty the pet gets. More frequent bathing can be done, but it may dry the skin and hair coat.


Wirehaired Breeds (Terriers): Wirehaired coats are supposed to be hard and crisp. Handstripping and clippering are grooming methods used to maintain this texture. Handstripping is where the hair is held between a "stripping blade" and the finger. The dead hair is then removed in a pulling fashion. Clippering and handstripping are not simple techniques and can be difficult to master. Because of this, many wirehaired dogs and especially show animals are professionally groomed. Prior to clippering, the groomer may choose to "card" the coat to achieve some of the benefits of handstripping, in a less time consuming fashion. For many terrier owners, the key to proper grooming is finding a good groomer.

It is usually recommended that terrier owners select an appropriate shampoo and avoid conditioners. A slicker brush is often used to help detangle the coat. In order to not soften the coat, terriers should not be bathed too regularly (possibly only once a month).


Long-haired Breeds (Cocker spaniels, Afghans, shih tzu, etc.): Long-haired breeds need to be brushed often. No product can eliminate brushing, but conditioners can help reduce tangling. Most long-haired breeds have layers of hair. A conditioner helps these layers lay properly. It is important to brush all tangles out prior to bathing and then again when the hair is dried. Take advantage of the metal teeth in a slicker brush to remove snarled hair. Because it can break the hair shaft and cause some hair loss, a slicker brush should be used with caution in show animals. For this reason, some pet owners use a "pin brush." The pin brush, however, is difficult to use to remove mats. When brushing long-haired breeds, it is important to use one hand to lift the hair out of the way while brushing. For example, start at the end of the foot and lift the longer hair fibers out of the way, while brushing down and away from the leg (see below). When bathing, choose a shampoo that is formulated for long coats and can reduce static-electricity. Using a coat "detangle" spray prior to brushing can also help. Most dogs can be bathed 1-2 times a month. More frequent bathing can be done, but it may dry the skin and hair coat.


Double-coated Breeds (Golden retrievers, Shetland sheepdogs, Samoyeds, etc.): Double-coated breeds have a very short undercoat with a longer outercoat. These breeds drastically shed the dense, soft undercoat. The main challenge is to brush out the shedding coat without matting the undercoat or having fur all over the place. To prevent this, brush with a slicker brush and follow up with a good combing using a metal comb with widely spaced teeth. Combing can often prevent matting, which can be a difficult and costly problem. Divide the dog into sections, and focus on one area until all the tangles are removed. Doing this in a systematic fashion will help ensure that no areas are missed. Brush the area and then comb it. If a tangle is found, brush it more until it is detangled. Do not just brush the top layer. It is essential that the brushing gets down to the undercoat. To help with this, the hand not holding the brush is often used to lift the outercoat out of the way, while brushing the underlying hair. A thorough brush and comb job can be checked by randomly selecting any part of the body and parting the dog’s hair. Skin should be easily visible anywhere the hair is parted. If hair is seen, the undercoat in this area was missed.

When bathing double-coated breeds, work up a lather deep into the undercoat. Then brush the dog again while it is still lathered to help brush out the undercoat. When rinsing, make sure all the soap is completely rinsed out. Double-coated breeds may need to be bathed 1-2 times a month. Like the other hair types, more frequent bathing can be done, but it may dry the skin and hair coat.

* After brushing and bathing it is important to reward all breeds with lots of love and affection. The brushing and bathing experience should be a positive one for both the dog and the owner.


Bathing: To help keep pet odors down and to keep the coat and skin healthy, it is important to bathe a pet on a regular basis. The frequency of each bathing will depend on the length of the dog’s coat and the environment in which the dog lives. In general, most dogs can be bathed 1-2 times a month, depending on how dirty the pet gets. More frequent bathing can be done, but it may dry the skin and hair coat. The following points and pictures will help in bathing a pet:

Bathing Checklist

  1. Before bathing, always brush the dog's hair. This will loosen the dirt and brush out dead hair.
  2. Select a good shampoo. Because the pH of a dog's hair is different from human hair, using human shampoos on dogs can contribute to dry, itchy skin. Select a dog shampoo that is tearless and hypo-allergenic. Select one that is formulated specifically for the pet’s type of coat (long, short, wirehaired, etc.).
  3. Begin by wetting the dog. Do not fill the tub or sink with water. Simply use a hose sprayer or plastic cup.
  4. Do not leave the dog alone.
  5. Cotton balls placed in the ears can be used to keep water out.
  6. Pour the shampoo onto the dog. Begin on the back of the neck and head.
  7. Keep the shampoo out of the dog's eyes.
  8. Work up a good lather on the entire dog.
  9. For longer haired breeds, it is often helpful to use a brush to help work the shampoo into the deeper layers of the coat and remove dead undercoat.
  10. Rinse until squeaky-clean.
  11. Pat the dog dry with a towel. Rubbing and moving the towel in circular motions has the tendency to cause the hair to tangle.
  12. Place the dog in a warm area and allow the hair to completely dry.
  13. Brush the dog once the hair is dry.
  14. Apply a coat dressing or spray when necessary.
  15. After bathing, when the water has softened the nails, it is a good time to clip the nails.

Much of the above information was taken from the following reference: Mohler, Diana. "Managing the 4 Coat Types." Dogs USA 18 (2003): 94-101.


Brushing:

The brush on the left is called a "slicker" brush. It can be used to help detangle the coat. The brush on the right is called a "rake." It is often used to comb out the coat after it has been thoroughly brushed. It can also be used to remove tangles and mats.

 

These two brushes are “pin” brushes. They can be used on many of the different coat types to help keep them tangle free. The brush on the right is often used when bathing the dog to help work the shampoo into the deeper layers of the coat.

 

Begin by dividing the dog into sections, and focus on one area until all the tangles are removed. Doing this in a systematic fashion will help ensure that no areas are missed. Many people start by brushing out the limbs with a slicker brush. Use the hand not holding the brush to hold the leg and lift the longer layers of hair out of the way.

 

Move to various areas on the dog’s body. The right hand in this picture is being used to lift the longer hair fibers away from the brush so that the underlying fibers can be thoroughly brushed.

 

In dogs with long, hair-covered ears, it is important to brush both the outside and the inside of the ear. When brushing the ear, firmly grasp the ear above where the brushing will take place. This will help prevent pulling on the ear while brushing.

 

In many dogs, the underside of the ear should also be brushed. In dogs like this spaniel, the hair right around the ear canal should be clipped and/or plucked. This will help the ear canal stay as dry as possible and will help prevent debris from getting trapped in the ear. All of this will help to prevent ear infections. Video clips of this procedure are found below. 

 

If the video does not play, you must install an MPEG video
player on your computer (e.g. Windows Media Player).
Click here to download Windows Media Player.
Or
Install Internet Explorer from our CD Manual.

 

Bathing:

Before bathing any dog, it is important to completely brush the entire coat. Any mats or tangles left in the hair will only become tighter and more difficult to remove after the animal is wet.

 

There are many different tangle removers and coat sprays that can be used as part of the brushing process. The one shown here is a coat conditioner, tangle remover, and a dirt repellant. It is sprayed on the coat.

 

For dogs that are prone to ear infections, it is also important to prevent water from entering the ear during the bath. Cotton balls can be gently placed over the ear canal to help keep the canal dry. Some animals will shake the cotton balls out, so care should be taken to prevent squirting or pouring any water near the ear canal.

 

Completely wet the entire dog. This is best accomplished by using a cup or hose sprayer. Because the dog is forced to stand in dirty water, do not fill the tub or sink with water.

 

Pour the shampoo onto the dog. Begin on the back of the neck and head. Keep the shampoo out of the dog's eyes. Work up a good lather on the entire dog. Because the pH of a dog's hair is different from human hair, using human shampoos on dogs can contribute to dry, itchy skin. Select a dog shampoo that is tearless and hypo-allergenic. Select one that is formulated specifically for the pet’s type of coat.

 

A bath brush (white arrow) is often used to work the shampoo into the coat and remove any remaining dead hair and dirt.

 

Completely rinse the dog from head to tail. Leaving any remaining shampoo on the dog’s coat or skin can cause irritation.

 

After the dog is completely rinsed, pat the dog dry using a towel. Rubbing back and forth or in circular motions tends to cause the hair to tangle and mat.

 

Once the dog is dry, brush the dog a second time to help prevent tangles. At this point it is often helpful to apply a coat dressing or spray to help prevent tangles, and repel dirt and dust. A video of this procedure is found below. 

 

If the video does not play, you must install an MPEG video
player on your computer (e.g. Windows Media Player).
Click here to download Windows Media Player.
Or
Install Internet Explorer from our CD Manual.